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The road following Adigrat is escorted by exceptional wonders intervened with
breathtaking sceneries. Thirty kilometers after Adigrat, begins a series of
flat-topped peaks. The oldest and most distinguished Debre Damo monastery rests
upon one of these peaks. This relic, 2800m above sea level lies 184km from
Mekelle and 41km from Adigrat. A zigzagging road leads to the foot of the
plateau.
The flat-topped ''Imba'' (plateau) measures about 1000 meters from northeast to
southwest and 500 meters from northwest to southeast. It is surrounded by sheer
cliffs. Ascent to the mountaintop is made possible via a 15 meter plaited
leather rope (the ''Jende'') that hangs from the summit. The church is
dedicated to its founder, Abune Aregawi (Zemikael), one of the 'nine saints'
who taught gospel in the 6th century. According to local tradition, Abune
Aregawi is believed to have been taken to the top of the Imba with the help of
a serpent that was commanded to do so by God. Today, the 'Jende' symbolizes the
miraculous serpent. Visitors need to be tightly tied up around their waists by
the supplementary rope as a means of additional safety. Female visitors are not
allowed to access the church.
On top of the Imba there are two churches. The main one, 20m deep and 9m wide,
was constructed under the auspices of Emperor Gebre-Meskel. He was the
Ethiopian king who reigned in the 6th century. It is believed to have been
built of the very site where the serpent had safely dropped the founder.
Described by Richard Pankurst as '' a veritable jewel of ancient Ethiopian
architecture'', the church is built following an Aksumite style of
construction: layers of stone alternated with layers of wood. The walls are
constructed of stones and strengthened with longitudinal beams, which are
themselves fixed to the walls with projecting woods otherwise known as ''monkey
heads.'' The walls of the church show resemblance to the decorative styles
displayed on the obelisks of Aksum. The monolithic pillars, the walls, the
beams, the wooden doors, and windows reflect Aksumite architecture.
On the ceiling of the sanctuary one can observe wooden carvings of cattle,
elephants and water birds. Ancient stone pillars can also be inspected in the
sanctuary and the Holy of Holies. The church has undergone few restoration
works, and therefore has retained its original structure.
The second church is built on the eastern verge of the Imba. According to local
tradition, this is the site where Abune Aregawi vanished unnoticed, hence
''Misiwarom'' (literally a place where he vanished from). It is a small church
only frequented by hermits living on the Imba.
Debre Damo is second to none in terms of monastic life in Ethiopia. On the top
of the Imba, there are hundreds of resident monks. These monks have greatly
contributed toward the development of church education and literature in
Ethiopia. With this regard, Debre Damo has won unparalleled fame and
reputation. This monastery has also served as a safe haven for Ethiopian kings
that were pursued by enemies. The prominent example is that of Atse Lebne
Dengle of the 16th century, who sought refuge during the fight of Ahmed Gragn's
army.
The monastery of Debre Damo possesses many treasures including ancient
manuscripts and crosses. Visiting the monastery emotionally takes you back to
the distant past of Ethiopian religious life. Professor Richard Pankhurst
rightly suggests, '' It takes today's traveler into a past age and leaves him
with a deeper understanding of Ethiopia's age-old and unique civilization than
mere words can give.''
The monastery of Debre Damo possesses many treasures including ancient
manuscripts and crosses. Visiting the monastery emotionally takes you back to
the distant past of Ethiopian religious life. Professor Richard Pankhurst
rightly suggests, '' It takes today's traveler into a past age and leaves him
with a deeper understanding of Ethiopia's age-old and unique civilization than
mere words can give.''
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