The Wukro-Degum road leads west to Gheralta. Its rock-crowned peak, together with far reaching plains, enclosed by a chain of mountains, casts a panoramic view. George Gerster, the Swiss photographer, writes in his book, Churches in Rock, "Gheralta with its 'western film' scenery of mountains seems to be a kind of Ethiopian Arizona. An Arizona, however, without motels are desperadoes. But nevertheless an eldorado with the choice intellectual pleasure of constantly stimulating and satisfying the passion for discovery." The road continues to Sinkata via the Hawzien town.

It is the home of a quarter of the rock churches, some famous for their stone workmanship, ancient paintings and manuscripts, and others known for their magnificent view and difficult ascent. Such great churches as Abune Yemata, Mariam Korker, Debretsion, Yohannes Maequddi, Abune GebreMikael, DebreMa'ar and Selassie Degum are in the very heart of this cliff.

Debretsion /Abune Abraham/

The church of Debretsion is not far from Degum, the village considered by many as the most appropriate camping place to explore the rock-hewn churches of Gheralta. Degum is 29 kms west of Wukro or 18 kms southeast of Hawzien. Debretsion can be approached from the southwest of the escarpment. The church is located at the top and it overlooks Degum and the entire Hawzien plain. Debretsion is about a 40 minute walk from the foot of the escarpment.

Often referred to as Abune Abraham, after the monk who founded it, Debretsion is a church entirely hewn from a living rock. It is rectangular in shape, 12.9m deep, 7.7m wide and 7.6m high. Its ceiling is supported by six cruciform pillars and its three sides are surrounded by a cloister.

The back walls of the holy of holies, the domes and the wall panels are abundantly decorated with fine paintings of saints and apostles. The dome is especially adorned with patterns. ''When we did enter we were astonished at the beauty of this church and its many murals,'' reports Ivy Pearce. Because of the simplicity of the lines and colors the paintings are estimated to be of the 15th century although according to historians the church itself is thought to have been constructed in the 14th century. Even though it is amazing to learn that the paintings have survived to this day with out receiving due care and protection, their color is now fading away at an alarming rate due to water seepage.

A 15th century unique circular ceremonial fan (one meter in diameter) with wooden framework makes the visit to this church special. Each of its 34 panels are finely painted with figures of the apostles. There is also a small domed room considered to have served as Abune Abraham's prayer room. Its walls are decorated with many geometrical designs and carvings in relief depicting Angels and Saints. It is indeed a manifestation of the great stone workmanship that was prevalent in the whole of Tigrai both at that time and before. According to Ruth plant, it is ''one of the great churches of Tigre, both from the architectural and devotional aspect.'' The annual festival takes place on the 21st of Hidar (30th of November in most years).

Yohannes Maequddi

The rock-hewn church of Yohannes Maequddi is situated on a plateau, east of Debretsion. David Buxton reports, ''This church of St. John, is the most interesting I have seen and is memorable, too, for its means of access which is a narrow clef between bulging walls of bare, glaring sandstone.'' It is an hour's walk from Debretsion.

There are two entrance doors both in Aksumite-style of construction. The main entrance is for men while the secondary entrance, which lies to the right of the main entrance, is for women. The sanctuary is so bright because of the abundant light that comes in through the window above the main entrance.

The church has a rectangular shape and its' inside space measures about 13m deep and 10m wide. The height of the walls is about six meters. There are four freestanding pillars supporting the ceiling. According to Ruth Plant, the general layout of the church is different from that of the other rock churches.

''If I thought that the other churches had a reverent and holy atmosphere, this one more so'', writes Ivy Pearce. Plant adds, ''So sacred did this church seem to be that while we were inside taking many flash pictures of the screws of murals on the walls, we were talking to one another very quietly.''

Yohannes Maequddi is best known for its ancient and well-preserved paintings. Ruth Plant referred to them as ''strangely pleasing primitive paintings''. Ivy Pearce, in agreement with Plant adds, ''The church of Yohannes Maequddi in the Gheralta region of Tigre has crude and quite primitive paintings, quaint and attractive, different from any other church in Tigre''. They are in a very good condition, because of the non-porous nature of the rock upon which they are painted.

Among the many subjects these old magnificent paintings depict Adam, Eve, a serpent, Apostle John, Madonna and Child. Dale Otto, one of the members of the Pearce's pilgrimage to the rock-hewn churches of Tigrai, remarks, ''Their flatness, simplicity, boldness of line, lack of shading and richness of collar are unique among the churches we visited. Even their occasional geometrically-patterned borders are wide, have flat colors and lack of intricacy of similar designs in other churches and manuscripts.''

MARIAM KORKOR

Debre Mariam Korkor, is described by David Buxton, author of, The Rock-Hewn and Other Medieval Churches of Tigre Province, Ethiopia, as ''one of the many important shrines in Gheralt.'' It is a rock church situated on one of the high mountains of Gheralta just overlooking the village of Megab, 8 kms south of Hawzien. An hour's climb from the village brings you to the church. Daniel Korkor, a smaller rock church, is a minutes' walk apart. While climbing up to the church, a visitor enjoys the panoramic view of the Hawzien plain to the northeast and Imbasneity to the west.

The church of Mariam Korkor faces west and it has a white washed facade of a built structure. It is one of the biggest and most complex rock-hewn churches of Tigrai. The interior of the church is 9.4m wide, 17m deep and about 6m high. There are six huge pillars, 2.4m apart from one other. The columns have bracket capitals and are cruciform in design. There are also a series of beautifully decorated arches. The arches and ceiling of the church are decorated with bas reliefs, some of them similar to those at Abraha Atsebaha

Mariam korkor is also rich in terms of ancient murals. The walls and columns of the church are decorated with paintings of stories from both the Old and New Testament. On one of the columns a magnificent painting depicting Archangel Raphael can be viewed. This particular painting is reported by Gerster to be ''similar to the painting in the cathedral church of Faras''. Another painting on the western wall is of the Virgin Mary with a circle around her abdomen. This circle, according to Ivy Pearce, indicates the development of Christ in utero. She further went on to state that such a theme was common in the 17th century Byzantine art. Plant observed variations in the styles of the paintings in the church and was led to believe that ''at least three painters have been at work.'' The church also has a wide collection of parchment manuscripts and crosses.

Daniel Korkor is a smaller church with only two rooms. The ceiling of the domed anteroom is decorated with primitive paintings. The mountains of Gheralta and the Hawzien plain can be viewed along the route to Daniel Korkor.

Abune Yemata (Guh)

Abune Yemata is one of Gheralta's rock-hewn churches. It can be reached from the historic town of Hawzien, turning off at the village of Megab and keeping left on the escarpment. A 4 kms drive from Megab and a further 30 minutes' walk will bring you to the foot of the perpendicular rock mountains of Guh. The scenery is breathtaking and the mountains resemble pillars reaching to the sky. Megab is only 10 kms from Degum or 8 kms south of Hawzien

The church is carved on the cliff face of the Guh Mountains. Unfortunately, there are no ropes, like at Debre Damo, for use in the ascent. You can find only footholds and handgrips in the rock face. Just before the entrance to the church there is a narrow ledge carved in the cliff from which one can view a sheer drop of approximately 250m to 300m.

Ivy Pearce, one of the first few westerners to visit the site, gives her account of a visit

"I climbed up some pretty stiff stuff and then came face to face with a cliff face with only footholds and handgrips at irregular intervals. This climb I could not manage, as my arms were not long enough to reach the next handgrip to let my foot go to find the next foot-grip. Furthermore, the handgrips were too wide to grasp firmly with my small hands. I didn't want to take risks, so gave it up and sat on a small ledge below."

Ruth plant on her part described the church as ''...the most unusual church in the most unusual place, that place being majestic and awesome.'' The effort of ascending, however, is lavishly rewarded by the well-preserved paintings attributed to the 15th century.

The interior of the church has four free standing and six non-free standing columns. It is 7.8m wide, 9.4m deep and 4m high.

In fact, the church is not only known for its difficult ascent but also for its truly remarkable murals. It is colourfully decorated wall to wall with exciting murals of Old and New Testament stories. Nine of the twelve apostles are depicted in a round frame on the ceiling. Abune Yemata on his horseback is shown on one of the walls. Plant described the paintings as ''the most sophisticated paintings found so far in Tigre''

It is indeed surprising to learn that such great works of art existed for centuries in an ''unusual place'' that seems rather closer to the moon than to earth. And it stands to reason that the so-called ''enemies of the church'' failed to reach it or never knew it existed. It is interesting to witness people from all walks of life climb the church ''like spiders'' on the annual festival which takes place on the 8th of November in most years.

Abune Gebre Mikael

The church of Abune Gebre Mikael is located a short distance, 16 kms, south of Abune Yemata Guh. It is set upon the western side of Koraro

Abune Gebre Mikael is one of the best and finest churches in Gheralta. The church, cruciform in design, is cut beautifully into a dome like rock. Its ceiling well, decorated with cupolas, is supported by eight carefully hewn columns and arches. Four of its pillars are incised with crosses

This church has two wooden doors and four windows through which the sanctuary receives an abundance of light. Local tradition states that this reverent relic dates back to the 4th century A.D.

The way to the sanctuary is itself memorable. The path is a steep climb and passes through a split, which requires jumping to and from rocks.

The interior part of the church is abundantly decorated with marvelous paintings and murals. Irrespective of its difficult ascent, the church has a wealth of murals.